Don't confuse this eatery with the larger Bluebird restaurant. Although both are part of Sir Terence Conran's empire of London restaurants and housed in the same building (formerly the garage where Malcolm Campbell's famous landspeed record-breaking Bluebird cars were assembled), the Dining Rooms trump the restaurant on every score. Chef Mark Broadbent's smart reinventions of British classics are cooked with imagination and flair, and are a rarity in a city where high-end indigenous cooking is still hard to find. All ingredients are seasonal and carefully sourced, variously including Scottish game, tender salt marsh lamb with hotpot potatoes or seafood fished from the giant lobster tank. Once part of Bluebird's private members' club, the room remains suitably convivial, with plump chairs, leather banquettes and masculine black-and-white photographs. Service is slick (a Conran speciality) and there's a cocktail bar for preprandial quaffing. The only real downside can be the atmosphere, which varies from a contented hum to a dull thud depending on who has booked.