HIX Soho

It's a foodie dream - spring leek and nettle soup with mendip snails, cod tongues with hazelnuts - though Hix is not afraid to serve fish and chips with a bottle of Sarson's. This confidence is madly cool and uniquely relaxing, making for a 'pick up the bone and eat with your fingers' good time, not a cathedral-like hush of wonder over the smoothness of a veloute. It's a fitting (if unwitting) tribute that legendary bon viveur Keith Floyd ate Hix's cooking for his last supper before suffering a fatal heart attack.