It was a coup that the Mandarin Oriental hotel brought Lyonnais chef Daniel Boulud's concept of pairing charcuterie and wine to this city, making it one of the best bistros in London. If intimate with New York, you'll know that he is a sensation there, with five restaurants and three Michelin stars (you'll also know to say 'booluu'). There's little point for herbivores here - it would be regrettable not to order the sharing charcuterie boards, a tease of starters with beautifully tender housemade terrines, pates, fine hams and saucissons.
More substantial bistro classics include coq au vin, steak frites and steamed mussels, plus there's Boulud's 'NY' burgers and an artisan sausage menu. And it would be remiss not to wash it all down with a Rhone or Burgundy (Lyon's surrounding wine regions), cheerfully recommended by sommelier David Vareille. If it's all sounding a bit formal, it's not meant to be - classy, yes, but cosy: a Adam Tihany-designed space with warm down-lighters, low, curved ceilings and nutty tones. It tries hard to be casual, though that is rather at odds with the Mandarin Oriental's insistence of swooping waiters serving food in synchronicity - you can't help but feel ashamed when you drop your fork.