Set into the defensive wall of Chelsea FC's home ground, Marco Pierre White's latest of his London restaurants is prime chomping ground for foodie football fans. There's even the occasional sighting of off-duty players from Roman Abramovich's expensively-procured team (or maybe that's what puts potential diners off). The room - designed by society decorator Tara Bernerd - has a sultry nightclub feel, with yellow bar stools, black walls and a glittering gold central column that seems to be crying out for a gigantic pole-dance. It's worth booking on Fridays and Saturdays, although the location means it can be painfully quiet during the week. This is a shame because the food is winningly good. White was Britain's first three-star Michelin chef and the menu - cooked by his long-term collaborator Matthew Brown - is a reminder of the easy-access edibility that originally put him on the map (his Italian restaurant, Luciano, comes highly recommended: 72 St James's Street, SW1; 020 7408 1440). A la carte, there are classic fish dishes, braises, steaks, superior shepherd's pie and oxtail and kidney pudding, plus MPW signatures such as braised pig trotter with morelles. Match-day diners get the likes of salt-beef stoveys, sherry trifle and first-class fish and chips. The restaurant was also the winner of Wallpaper* magazine's best cocktail award. Football, food and fire in the belly - what more could a boy ask for?