This isn't the headquarters of Gordon Ramsay's culinary empire of London restaurants - that honour goes to his Michelin three-star establishment in Chelsea - but unless you've put your name down at birth, getting a table at Royal Hospital Road can be near impossible. It's not exactly easy at Claridge's, either, but the odds are definitely more in your favour - and if you strike lucky, there are few more glamorous places to eat. The fabulously restored 1930s dining room, filled with dramatic three-tiered chandeliers and plump purple chairs, is made all the more fabulous by its sparkly dusting of famous faces. Service is as smooth as one of Ramsay's truffled white bean veloutes, and few experts could tell the haute French food of his right-hand man, Mark Sargeant, from the work of the maestro himself. If feeling brave, check the availability of the chef's table, which gives a ringside view of the kitchen. If, however, Claridge's can't accommodate you anywhere, don't despair. Ramsay is monopolising the industry: plenty more chances (albeit diluted) at Maze (10 Grosvenor Square, W1; 020 7107 0000), The Narrow (see PUBS), and his latest acquisition, Foxtrot, on Royal Hospital Road (Number 79; 020 7352 4448).