• Lutyens

    French
  • The second installment of Terence Conran's comeback in terms of London restaurants after The Boundary (see separate entry) is his latest love-letter to the classic bistro, opened late 2009. Housed in a handsome Fleet Street building and named after Edwin Lutyens, the revered British architect who laid out New Delhi, it occupies the two lower floors of the 1930s' Lutyens-designed former Reuters HQ. The menu, overseen by David Burke, who started working for Conran back at Bibendum under Simon Hopkinson, should appeal to anyone with a love for polished French classicism in familiar dishes of snails, lobster mousse, rabbit wrapped in bacon, skate wing with brown shrimps and butter, and Peach Melba. But it's also all very new Conran, which is to champion excellent food alongside highbrow design (the room includes some Lutyens furniture, as well as Conran's subtle references to Art Deco and Modernism). Rather grandly billed as a 'Restaurant, Bar, Members' Club & Cellar Rooms', its aspirations mostly hold up thanks to its setting, crisp linen and smart service, and (perhaps unfortunately) its popularity with power-wielding City chieftains.
    • Food: 7, Service: 8, Atmosphere: 6
    • GBP 52
19069

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