When Wareing acrimoniously split from his one-time friend and boss Gordon Ramsay to go solo in 2007, the foodie gossips in London restaurants went into overdrive. Ramsay reclaimed the name of the restaurant that had earned Wareing two Michelin stars, Petrus, but the Berkeley Hotel kept the man, and very wisely so. Sitting in the plush, David Collins-designed purple velvet dining room is like being nestled in a chocolate box, and food and service is formal, with amuse bouches and gentleman pouring wine with one hand behind their back, as you'd expect from a Michelin-starred hotel restaurant. But Wareing has attracted a crowd that breaks the stiff, French restaurant mould. It's less the concierge-sent tourists and expense-account white males, more all ages, women, families, friends, making for an unusually mellow energy. And, of course, the food is beautifully balanced, highly accomplished and thoroughly modern. Expect gasps of pleasure at the French/Italian cheese trolley, giggles at the OTT bonbon trolley that tinkles round with coffee, and intent interest on a serious 1,000-strong cellar that's as sound on entry-level wines as on the £25,000 1961 Petrus. Ramsay is frankly powerless.