Restaurants in London - Murano The Best Restaurants, Dining and Places to Eat in London | HG2 A hedonist's guide to...

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Murano
Italian
As Gordon Ramsay's former handmaiden, Angela Hartnett's Murano suffers in the same way as many London restaurants in Ramsay's empire. Service is unnecessarily fussy and, at times, plain poker-up-the-arse stuffy. Despite a name that conjures up images of the beautifully colourful Venetian glass, the interior is - a couple of chandeliers aside - afflicted with familiar upscale beigeness. Not so the food - Hartnett is a very fine cook and few do fancy Italian with the flair she manages in dishes such as braised rabbit pappardelle with confit lemons, Taggiasca olives, mint and rocket, and confit halibut in olive oil with celeriac fondant, fregola and ginger, and crab vinaigrette; the wine list cherry-picks Italy's finest with a few quality bottles from elsewhere. But like all Italian luxury goods (and Ramsay output), it doesn't come cheap. We can't help but wonder will Hartnett away from her svengali.
- Food: 9, Service: 6, Atmosphere: 6
- GBP 70
- 20 Queen Street
- +44 20 7592 1222
- Open noon-2.30pm; 6.30pm- 10.30pm Mon-Sat
- www.gordonramsay.com/murano

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