Fino is one of several tapas restaurants in London, but not as we know it. There's no dark Zorro-esque décor, no stewed bits of sausage floating in acid wine. In fact, almost everything about this Fitzrovia basement - from the doorman to the elegant modern interior and cocktail bar - is as refreshing as the sherry it's named after. It's owned by restaurateur brothers Sam and Eddie Hart, who opened the place as a way of giving rein to their passion for Spanish food. Head chef Jean-Philippe Patruno comes from a Michelin three-star background, and the menu of tapas and 'small plates' is a tantalising mix of simplicity and sophistication, from appetizers of grilled peppers to foie gras with chilli jam. Seafood also figures large, some of it airfreighted in from Spain. As always with grazing dishes, the bill mounts up if you go à la carte, but the two tasting menus (classic and gourmet) offer deliciously good value.